What to eat in Lisbon
The dishes worth seeking out, from pastéis de nata to bacalhau à Brás, and how to tell a tourist trap from the real thing.
Dishes worth seeking out
Pastéis de nata. Portugal's custard tart, best eaten warm with a dusting of cinnamon. The original recipe comes from Pastéis de Belém (see our Belém guide), but excellent versions are sold across the city — a queue out the door isn't always a sign of quality, just proximity to a monument.
Bacalhau. Salt cod, prepared in a reported 365 different ways — one for every day of the year, as the saying goes. Bacalhau à Brás (shredded with egg, onion and matchstick fries) and bacalhau com natas (baked with cream) are two of the most common and most approachable versions for a first try.
Bifana. A simple, addictive pork sandwich, marinated and pan-fried, served in a plain bread roll — Lisbon's definitive cheap eat, often best from an unglamorous corner tasca rather than anywhere styled for tourists.
Sardinhas assadas. Grilled sardines, especially associated with June's Santo António festival but served year-round, smoky and simple, usually with boiled potatoes and salad.
Amêijoas à Bulhão Pato. Clams cooked in garlic, olive oil, white wine and coriander — a coastal classic that shows up on menus across the city.
Ginjinha. A sour cherry liqueur, traditionally drunk standing at a hole-in-the-wall counter, sometimes served in a small chocolate cup you eat afterward.
Where to eat, by budget
Tascas — small, family-run, no-frills eateries — remain the best value in the city, often with a handwritten daily menu (prato do dia) that changes based on what's fresh. Time Out Market in Cais do Sodré gathers a curated selection of well-regarded kitchens under one roof, useful for groups with different tastes, though pricier than a standalone tasca. At the top end, Lisbon's fine dining scene has grown substantially, with several Michelin-recognised kitchens now operating in the city.
Spotting a tourist trap
- A menu with photos and translated into six languages, positioned directly outside a major monument, is rarely where locals eat.
- A restaurant tout standing outside trying to seat you is a reliable negative signal — the best tascas rarely need to.
- Check for a daily-changing prato do dia written on a chalkboard or single printed sheet — a strong sign of a kitchen cooking what's actually fresh, not a laminated menu unchanged in years.
Coffee, the local way
Order a "bica" for a short black espresso, Lisbon's default coffee order — and drink it standing at the counter, where it's cheaper than sitting at a table, exactly as most locals take it.
Frequently asked questions
- What is the most famous food in Lisbon?
- The pastel de nata, a custard tart, is the most iconic — though bacalhau (salt cod) is the more central dish in everyday Portuguese cooking.
- Where can I find cheap, good food in Lisbon?
- Small family-run tascas with a handwritten daily menu (prato do dia) are consistently the best value, often far outperforming restaurants positioned near major monuments.
- What should I order to drink in Lisbon?
- A "bica" (short espresso) for coffee, and ginjinha (sour cherry liqueur) for something distinctly local — traditionally drunk standing at a small counter bar.